Road trip in Italy: From Rome to the Amalfi Coast
Italy is a bit like a technicolor movie: an explosion of culture, history, cuisine and incredible landscapes. If you dream of a road trip there, between Rome, Naples, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, I have concocted the itinerary that I myself made during 10 unforgettable days last September (yes I know better late than never ;-))
So, ready to board?
Day 1 to 3: Rome – the fabulous
Okay, let's not lie to each other, Rome is a city where you could spend weeks exploring without ever getting bored. But since we're here for a road trip, we're going to focus our time on the must-sees (and a few nice little getaways so you don't end up in the crowd of tourists).
Start with a day strolling on Piazza Navona, with its majestic fountains, then lose yourself in the streets of Trastevere in the evening, this charming district with cobbled streets and trattorias where you can enjoy a plate of carbonara pasta that will make you forget everything else (I ate there, without a hint of irony, the best dish of my life, to die for I swear, my taste buds still haven't recovered a few months later.)
The weekend evenings in this area are very festive, people everywhere in the streets, many bar and club terraces, there is something for all tastes (and all ages).
And of course, you can't come to Rome without taking a little foray into history with the the Colosseum, Roman Forum and its Vatican (with its majestic St. Peter's Basilica). But before you leave, make sure to stop for some real Italian gelato (at Giolitti, an institution).
After three days exploring Rome, you're ready to jump on your train (or car if you prefer) and hit the road to Naples.
Tips: FYI, the Rome – Naples train is quite comfortable, lasts 1 hour and costs at least 10 euros
Day 4 and 5: Naples – the bustling city
Now, prepare yourself for a culture shock. Naples is noisy, chaotic, but so authentic. Two days here, and you'll live the Neapolitan experience in all its glory.
Naples is Italy at its most vibrant, noisy and alive. The first thing to do? TRY THE PIZZA. There’s no debating it, pizza in Naples is a mystical experience. Margherita, Marinara, or even a seafood pizza if you’re feeling adventurous – it’s all delicious. Go to Michele's Old Pizzeria Or Sorbillo. (You will understand).
After that, a stroll in the historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a must-see. Don't forget to take a little tour of the neighborhood Spaccanapoli and venture into the narrow streets filled with small souvenir shops (yes, you will probably bring back a magnet – yes, another one – but it's for a good cause).
Vesuvius, the imposing volcano that watches over the city, is a must-see. If you are a bit sporty, climb to the top for a spectacular view. Personally, the view of the volcano from the port at sunset, without all the daily ferry boats in the bay was a MUST to do. If you want more relaxation, enjoy the panoramic views and Neapolitan cuisine.
Day 6: Ischia and Procida – the islanders
Here we enter the magic of the islands.
ISCHIA
Take a ferry from Naples and drop off your bags at Ischia, an island with incredible charm. Relax in its thermal waters (it feels great, believe me), or stroll through its lush gardens and picturesque little streets. Ischia is a little corner of paradise where you can truly feel like you're outside of time.
For my part, having arrived at the end of the summer season (mid-September), the manager of my accommodation, a lovely old Greek gentleman, offered to come and pick me up from the ferry (and he did well because I arrived in torrential rain, but finished an hour later, like all microclimates on the islands you might say).
I had taken accommodation in the mountains expressly to have a breathtaking view of the entire bay and I did well. This photo will suffice to summarize my point 🙂
There are buses to go down into the city for a walk which run regularly if you don't have a vehicle. You just need to buy your bus ticket in the tobacconist which is at the bottom of the mountain.
After a night in paradise, filled with the calm around me, the surrounding nature, and this soothing view, it is already time to leave for my next stop: Procida .
PROCIDA
A slightly smaller island, but just as beautiful. Procida is a bit like a quiet village where time seems to have stood still. Its colorful houses, small beaches, and winding streets are perfect for strolling and taking breathtaking photos. It's also the perfect place to have a coffee, watch the boats and tell yourself that, really, life is beautiful here.
The ferry ride between the two islands is very short, just 25 minutes.
On arrival, if like me you have a backpack type travel bag for your road trip and want to travel light for your few hours on the island, there are 2-3 luggage storage areas at the ferry exit for a few euros.
I must say that even if the island is quickly visited, these small colorful houses captivated me. I was literally in the Italy of postcards. Perfect weather: it was warm but far from the summer heatwaves. Few tourists, I could find myself alone in the small streets to walk (to my great happiness^^).
Arriving on the other side of the island, you will not be short of somewhere to eat with all the restaurants along the coast, their prices all being quite similar.
I ate (another) pasta dish there: cacio e pepe this time. A killer!
After a stroll in the heights of the island to see the colorful panorama from another angle, it is time to leave quietly towards the other side of the island, for my return ferry to Sorrento.
Info : The Procida – Sorrento ferry takes about 40 minutes and costs around 30 euros (be careful, these are seasonal crossings and prices differ depending on the season of course)
Day 7: Sorrento – the peaceful one
After these idyllic moments on the islands, you will return to the mainland and head towards Sorrento.
50 minutes from Naples, Sorrento is a small town perched on a cliff, which offers spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea. This is where you really start to feel the charm of the Amalfi Coast. You can stroll through its alleys full of shops.
If like me you LOVE everything lemon-based, this city is THE place to be to try their lemon ice cream, presented in hollowed-out lemons (ok I admit, very touristy but sorry, I'm not kidding about lemon).
Sorrento is also a great starting point for exploring the surrounding area. If you want to take a short trip to the mountains, a visit to the Ferle valley, or simply relax by the sea, it's time to breathe deeply and enjoy the calm of this place.
After visiting Piazza Tasso (famous with its flags facing the sea), which is the heart of the city, with its many shops, restaurants, cafes, direction my hostel for the night before a busy day on the Amalfi Coast (a destination that I have wanted to discover for a long time).
Day 8: Amalfi Coast – (Positano, Amalfi and Ravello)
This is the apotheosis of my road trip: a day on the famous Amalfi Coast.
Given the complexity of driving on the legendary Strada Statale 163, Personally, I wanted to take advantage of this rather busy day to enjoy the landscapes and the cities visited.
Knowing the number of accidents per year on this road, the one and only way to reach these cities, and the unconscious driving of the Italians I must admit, many trucks and buses crossing on winding roads, I would never have taken the risk of doing it by myself.
So I found an excursion via the Airbnb website with Antonio, a native of Naples, who loves his country and the Amalfi Coast so much that he made it his job.
I found myself with an English couple and another American couple, in a superb car for this day of discovery, brightened up by the numerous anecdotes from our guide of the day about certain places on the way or historical facts, each more interesting than the last.
POSITANO
1er stop : Positano, with its houses clinging to steep slopes and its beaches, is not to be missed. Stroll along its beach and/or stroll through its narrow streets discovering small craft shops.
The only downside is that like any tourist city, the prices of all its shops are very expensive, even down to the smallest coffee ^^
(Antonio showed us the only café in the city centre that offers the lowest prices in Positano for coffees and Italian pastries, each one as tempting as the next (International Bar, Via Guglielmo Marconi, 306)
On that day, prepare yourself to be blown away by the beauty of Positano. Imagine colorful houses clinging to steep slopes, the turquoise sea as far as the eye can see, and a relaxed and chic atmosphere.
If you want a bit of adventure (and have time of course), take a hike on the path of the gods, this legendary trail for unforgettable panoramic views.
Once again, being at the end of the summer period, I did not have a crowd of tourists to be able to visit it peacefully (especially in its small winding streets).
AMALFI
Then, direction Amalfi, less known than Positano. It is a little gem with its impressive duomo and breathtaking views. It is the ideal place for a quiet stroll.
By the way, if you want to explore the coast, there are boat trips that will take you to see hidden places and sea caves.
Antonio, who knew everyone of course, found us a little excursion for almost nothing (unlike the usual prices)
Seen from the sea, we discover many villas, each one more beautiful than the other, but with such different architectures, blending perfectly with the surrounding rock. (Some personalities/celebrities lived there or rented these villas for a time for filming or other but I don't remember who ^^)
RAVELLO
Finally, we push until Ravello, a village perched in the mountains, offering spectacular views of the sea and absolute calm. A real little corner of paradise to relax before leaving again.
To see among other things, the Villa Cimbrone with its garden with spectacular views of the sea. Or the Villa Rufolo, another amazing place to stroll and enjoy the beauty of nature.
Before making the return trip to Sorrento (with views just as beautiful on the way back as on the way there) for a last evening.
Day 9 and 10: Return to Naples
After this breathtaking day on the Amalfi Coast, it is time to return to Naples. Once again, I take the train. (It is also possible to take the ferry there too if you prefer).
Take advantage of your last evening to stroll in the light of the Neapolitan street lamps, to the rhythm of the noise of the city, while savoring a last pizza (because, seriously, you can't leave without eating one).
And here it is, this is already the end of this adventure.
You will leave with your head full of memories, a phone battery that is flat from taking so many photos and probably a few extra pounds 😉
This trip will have shown you the dolce vita in all its facets. And if you ever feel a little blues when you return, you will always have the best solution: start planning your next trip to Italy!
After all, who said that happiness can't be found on the road (and sometimes, in a good plate of pasta)?
